Includes emissions test in which vehicles 96’ and newer get the computer OBD II test and 95’ and older vehicles get a tail pipe test or smog test. During the State inspection we pull all wheels and check your brakes, suspension, steering, tires, lights, glass, wiper blades, frame and exhaust. Also I take a good look at your engine for leaks, belt life, hoses, fluids and tune up related items.
We offer the whole line of services from brake pad replacement to a complete brake system overhaul or upgrade. Most shops just replace the parts, I will take the time to remove and grind away the rust that builds up over the years and causes brake pads to become stuck. Most technicians just hammer in the pads or pry them in. When replacing brake lines we only use Copper Nickel brake line. This type of brake line is new and it is the best, it never ever corrodes and lasts a lifetime. Conventional steel brake lines just rust and will need replaced again and again. Brake bleeding and brake adjustment are crucial to the lifespan of your brakes, we make sure it’s done correctly. Sometimes brake systems are so rusty and corroded that they need replaced entirely so getting them serviced correctly is crucial.
Suspension designs are ever-changing and knowing how to deal with each type can be very important when diagnosing noises or tire wear problems. In suspensions there are upper and lower ball joints, control arms, inner and outer tie rods, sway bar end links, struts, shocks, strut mounts, steering knuckles or spindles and these parts need to be evaluated correctly to minimize unnecessary replacement of parts. We have a complete understanding of these systems and can diagnose and fix any problem you might have. If you have a rough ride, bouncy car or a car with knocking or creaking, you should have your suspension checked before your wheel falls off!
When diagnosing a vehicles inability to produce cold dry air we use many tools to help us. We use an air conditioning recycling machine to suck out old Freon and any moisture that may be left behind. Then we charge the system and perform a series of temperature tests to find out where the source of the problem is. If everything checks ok, then we use an Ultraviolet Light and scan the whole air conditioning system, high and low pressure lines, evaporator, condenser, compressor, expansion valve, receiver dryer and all sensors. If the dye lights up then that’s where the leak is. Usually this service costs $85 and that includes 1.5lbs Freon R134a and 1/4oz dye.
This is a service that takes patience. First a little lesson on check engine lights and their rules relating to emissions testing. Your vehicle has a computer and its purpose is to record data from engine sensors then calculate the timing sequence needed for ignition and fuel to mix and combust properly. There are about 8 tests that the engine’s computer runs. Each test covers a different series of sensors and the vehicle needs to be driven under specific criteria such as,“50 mph highway, under 3000rpm for 5 min.” Therefore if the check engine light had been “cleared or the battery has been recently disconnected” then we tell the customers that they need to drive it around 100 miles so the computer can finish its tests and so we are sure it’s ready for the emissions test and that the problem has been fixed. You cannot clear your check engine light and get an emissions test, anywhere!
So we scan the computer for codes then determine necessary action. There are hundreds of codes a car may have. Sometimes there can be 12 or so different codes at ONCE! It’s important that we go the right route in diagnosing the correct ones. Sometimes engine sensors or components fail causing multiple trouble codes. Really there is only 1 problem but 3 codes are showing. It is also common for a vehicle to have compound issues and many trouble codes also. We usually check the engines data stream and look at the values of sensors such as map sensors, throttle position sensor, Mass Airflow sensor, Crank angle sensor, camshaft position sensor, coolant temp sensor, intake air temperature, oxygen sensors, exhaust temperature, oil pressure, fuel pressure, and many others to determine the problem with the vehicle. This usually costs $59.99 and includes one hour of diagnosis.
All vehicles need to be maintained because many of their parts will eventually wear and fail. This is why scheduled maintenance is so important. At specific mileage intervals, the vehicle is due for an inspection of some sort and maybe a part replacement. For example, 1990 Ford with 100,000 miles on it should have had oil, transmission, coolant, power steering and brake fluid replaced. It would also have had spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter, air filter, belts, timing belt, water pump, upper and lower radiator hoses, valve cover gaskets, oil pan gasket, axles, universal joints, axle seals, cabin air filters, timing cover gasket, pulleys, idler pulley, serpentine belt tensioner and o-rings just to name a few. If these have not been done on that vehicle it would be in really bad shape. But if you had the maintenance done you would have a decent 1990 Ford that probably did not break down as much or have many problems.
There are many electrical problems with cars such as hard or slow starting, no or low charging, shorts, battery drains, and open circuits in any wire or computer. We use a highly elaborate electrical tester that tests the battery, alternator and starter. It is specific for your vehicle and it prints out a report with graphs displaying strengths or weaknesses in your vehicle. Other electrical problems may be on the interior too. Your whole interior covers a network of wires that run from back to front and anywhere in between connecting components such as your radio, clock, turn signals, high beams, instrument cluster, blower motor, antennas, seat heaters, ecu’s, horn, wipers, hvac module, interior lights and fuse boxes.
You need someone with a light touch, making sure everything goes back together without notice after a repair or diagnosis. I wear thick white latex gloves when working on cars and have all the necessary tools and information available to fix any car, any problem.
These are categorized together because placement on the vehicle, underneath. The Exhaust manifold is the first piece, it runs directly into the down pipe, this usually has an upstream o2 sensor in it. From there exhaust flows into a flex pipe which absorbs the engines vibrations, then the exhaust enters the catalytic convertor which cleans the exhaust. After a wash it needs to be silenced so that’s where the intermediate pipe and muffler and tail pipe come into play. We replace, repair, adjust, weld, fabricate and upgrade everything exhaust related.
The fuel system has a storage unit (gas tank) and inside is a fuel pump that when energized sends fuel through a pressure line and into the engine, the engine decides how much it needs and sends the remainder back through a fuel return line back to the tank. There is another fuel system called the evaporative emission system. It stores fuel vapors and allows the engine to enjoy it from time to time. This system uses a charcoal canister, purge valve, vapor pressure sensors and vacuum lines to accomplish this complex task.
All vehicles are produce harmful pollutants if not controlled. We have been fortunate to have the knowledge to minimize the effects of pollution on the environment from the abundance of gasoline-operated vehicles. Most vehicles have a catalytic convertor, secondary air injection pump, egr valve and sensors to monitor their activity. When these components fail it can cause pollutants to enter the atmosphere and the check engine light will be illuminated. You are only committed to a repair of this nature if your emissions test is due but if you want to keep this air we breath safe for our kids then you should probably get it fixed!
Jimmy's On-It Automotive 2007